The Culinary Heritage of Old Town Kern
When exploring the culinary landscape of California, few regions offer an experience as unique and deeply rooted in history as the Kern County area. Specifically, the Old Town Kern neighborhood in Bakersfield holds a special distinction. It is home to the largest concentration of Basque restaurants in the United States. This area, affectionately known as the Bakersfield historic Basque block, provides a fascinating glimpse into a culinary tradition that has thrived here for over a century.
The story of Basque cuisine in Bakersfield begins in the mid-1800s. Immigrants from the Basque region, located between Spain and France, traveled to California seeking their fortunes during the Gold Rush. Many eventually settled in the Central Valley, finding work as sheepherders. To accommodate these solitary workers when they came to town, boarding houses were established. These boarding houses served hearty, communal meals designed to feed hungry laborers, laying the foundation for the dining experience that exists today.
Understanding the Traditional Basque “Setup”
Dining at a Basque restaurant is not just about the food; it is about the experience. The defining characteristic of this culinary tradition is the “setup,” a prodigious, multi-course preamble to the main entrée. When you sit down, usually at long, family-style trestle tables, the feast begins almost immediately. It is an exercise in pacing, as the sheer volume of food can be overwhelming for first-time visitors.
The Preamble to the Main Course
The setup typically starts with a loaf of crusty sourdough bread and a tureen of robust cabbage soup. Following this, large bowls of beans and fresh salsa are brought to the table. Diners are encouraged to mix the beans and salsa into their soup, a local tradition that adds depth and spice. Next comes a procession of side dishes, which often includes boiled vegetables, pickled tongue, and a serving of spaghetti. All of this is consumed before the main course even arrives.
Choosing Your Entrée
If you manage to save room, the main courses are equally impressive. Traditional options often feature roasted lamb leg, a nod to the sheepherding history of the immigrants. Other popular choices include rich oxtail stew, perfectly fried chicken, and thick-cut steaks. The focus is on hearty, comforting flavors that satisfy the soul as much as the stomach. For those interested in exploring the broader culinary scene of the region, our Cities & Communities guide offers insights into other local dining hubs.
Iconic Restaurants on the Basque Block
Several historic establishments anchor the Bakersfield historic Basque block, each offering its own interpretation of the traditional feast. These restaurants have been operated by the same families for generations, preserving the authenticity and warmth of the original boarding houses.
Wool Growers Restaurant
Perhaps the most famous of these establishments is Wool Growers Restaurant. Easily identifiable by its vintage neon sheep sign, this 1950s-era dining house is a beloved local institution. The atmosphere is boisterous and welcoming, with bright lighting and long communal tables. Their oxtail soup and incredibly crispy French fries are legendary among locals and visitors alike.
Pyrenees Café
Just a short walk away is the Pyrenees Café, offering a slightly different vibe. With its dark wood bar, vinyl booths, and classic neon signs, it has a distinctly nostalgic, almost film-noir atmosphere. It attracts a diverse crowd, from Basque old-timers to younger locals. Beyond the traditional dinners, their breakfast menu is a hidden gem, featuring indulgent items like bacon-stuffed pancakes.
The Signature Drink: Picon Punch
No visit to a Basque restaurant is complete without sampling the traditional cocktail, the Picon Punch. This unique highball is a staple of Basque-American culture. It is typically made with a bitter orange liqueur (originally Amer Picon, though substitutes are often used today ), grenadine, a splash of soda water, and a float of brandy. It is usually garnished with a lemon peel. The resulting drink is a complex, miraculous balance of tart and sweet flavors. It serves as an excellent aperitif to stimulate the appetite before tackling the massive setup.
In conclusion, exploring the Bakersfield historic Basque block is a must for any food lover visiting the region. It offers more than just a meal; it provides a tangible connection to the history and heritage of the people who helped build the community. The combination of incredible hospitality, massive portions, and unique flavors ensures an unforgettable dining experience. When you visit, come hungry, embrace the communal atmosphere, and savor every bite of this enduring culinary tradition.
